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Vol.3 Trends in the suit industry ~Hiroyuki Tokano

04.05.2022

BUSINESS

“Suits” that are often understood to be seldom changed even among menswear industry. Because of the design that is widely known and it is perfect in and of itself, but the design or details of a suit are always changing. For example, in the 80’s bubble economy, loose-fitting shirts were often preferred, so the shape of the suit was “oversized.” In those days, jackets with thick padded shoulder pads were preferred. And on the crotch there are deep pleats. There is also a wide selection of luxurious fabric textures, such as shiny silk wool that is popular. But when entering the ’90s economic bubble burst, the luxury brand like DC were fading. The novelty of suit designs is reduced and the formal tailoring of the “Italian Classico” style is becoming more accepted. In addition, 3-button suits are becoming popular in this era as well.

“Mode Style”

“Mode Style”

“Italian Classico”

“Italian Classico”

By the 2000s, the slim fit suits that were used today began to emerge. The popularity of suit styles has changed drastically, until today, the “Mode Style” that looks different from suits in the past is at the forefront. The principle is shoulders of the shirt are attached to the body when wearing and the leg length is short enough to unable to cover the ankle cuffs. Clothing manufacturers have also made smaller measurements for clothing. The standard of measurement for suits has changed significantly. M size suits were sold in the past is selling as L size today.

Later in the year 2020, the slim fit suit has evolved to another level, becoming an emphasis on “comfortability” without causing the suit to lose its shape. The “4S suit” that we have previously recommended is one of the “newly designed suit” that does not have shoulder pads in the jacket and is so lightweight that it can be worn as an outerwear like a cardigan. The elegant look is maintained by woven jersey material in the same way as fleece. Also it can be washed and no need to iron and is highly flexible as well. I have been working in menswear industry for over 20 years, so I have always adapted new suits to suit the new era. But I still have a weird feeling to wear a jacket while working at home because of the Covid-19 situation or because of the hot weather in Thailand. Personally, I would like to try wearing a “comfortable suit” that suits this era as well.